Severina Elevates Italian Classics

Pittsburgh is filled with numerous Italian restaurants serving up homestyle fare. Severina, located in West View, sets itself apart from these other spots by nailing the classic dishes and having a fully stocked pastry case at all times. Reservations aren’t too hard to come by; I’ve been able to call the same day to secure a table for that evening. It’s also one of the few restaurants where you can enjoy breakfast, lunch and dinner. I’ve been there twice now for dinner and have been thoroughly impressed with every dish I’ve tasted.

Severina has a simple menu with just two sections: appetizers and entrées. I sometimes prefer smaller menus so that I’m not so overwhelmed with choice. I still wanted nearly everything on the menu, though, so the smaller menu didn’t help that much. You have to start with an appetizer or two. Meatballs are an excellent indicator that an Italian spot knows what it’s doing, and Severina certainly passed the test. Their meatballs are flavorful and tender, coated in a slightly sweet, aromatic tomato sauce. I could have eaten just these for dinner and left happy. Another must-try appetizer is the arancini. These fried beauties are also bathed in the delectable tomato sauce, and when you cut them open, liquid gold spills out. Oh wait, that’s copious amounts of gooey mozzarella. My cheese pull could have stretched across the whole restaurant if my dining partner hadn’t stopped me. The texture contrast of the crunchy outside and soft, cheesy inside made the dish all the more satisfying. If you’re looking for a more simplistic appetizer, then the whipped ricotta is for you. The ricotta itself is bright and creamy and pairs well with the savory tomato jam. The crunchy bread is the perfect vehicle to inhale the ricotta. I honestly could’ve just eaten it with a spoon. It was that luscious. The appetizer selection is always changing, but you can count on the dishes to have a lot of herbaceous flavor and exciting textures.

Classic, cheesy chicken parmesan

Every entrée at Severina came with a simple, refreshing house salad with all of the typical suspects: tomatoes, cucumber and red onion. It was tossed with a bright, acidic dressing. It gave me a moment to refresh my palate and prepare for my entrée. The first time I dined at Severina, I went for the chicken parmesan. This is one of my favorite Italian dishes to order if I’m not in the mood for pasta. Lucky for me, I got the best of both worlds, as all of Severina’s meat dishes come with pasta, too. The chicken parmesan was incredibly juicy and, despite being covered in copious amounts of tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese, the breading on the chicken was not soggy at all. The seasoning in the breading was herby, and the tomato sauce only enhanced those flavors. The pasta was simple spaghetti covered in tomato sauce and was cooked to al dente perfection. This plate was hearty and the epitome of comfort

Luxurious chicken sugo

food. The second time I dined at Severina, I opted for the chicken sugo, which was the other menu item that had caught my eye on my first visit. The penne pasta was al dente and bathed in a silky cream sauce bursting with savory flavor. The black truffle flavor was very prominent in this dish and only added to its luxuriousness. The mushrooms enhanced the truffle flavor and added their own earthiness. The braised chicken fell apart on my fork, and because this meal was packed with so much umami flavor, the chicken soaked all of it up. This is the dish to order if you want to feel like a millionaire for the evening.

Severina’s pastry case is what makes the restaurant stand out among its competitors. It is consistently packed with a large array of fresh, homemade pastries ranging from cheesecake to cannoli to tiramisu. Even if you’re not a big pastry fan (which, admittedly, is me), you’ll find something you love. On my first visit to Severina, I tasted a maritozzo, which is extremely similar to a cream puff. The difference is the airy brioche dough, which is more akin to a doughnut. The dough is also made with olive oil, instead of butter, which adds a subtle savoriness to the dough. The flavor of the dough balances out the sweetness of the copious amounts of fresh whipped cream that the pastry is stuffed with. The only word to describe eating this pastry is glorious. I wanted to fall asleep in the soft pastry and bathe in the sweetened whipped cream. Every bite was a dream, and I just about cried when I scooped up the last bite. The second time around, I went for something a little richer: the chocolate torte. It was dense and fudgy and had an intense chocolate flavor that was bittersweet. Compared to the maritozzo, the sweetness was more subtle, although it felt just as decadent. I’m excited to go back and sample some more of the mouthwatering pastries Severina is whipping up.

A maritozzo, one of the many decadent desserts at Severina

Both times at Severina, I felt like I was at an Italian grandma’s home having dinner. The restaurant was lively and bursting with laughter, not to mention the food was immaculately cooked. I definitely want to visit for lunch so I can also sample their panini and pizzas. I’m also looking forward to what the summer brings to the menu, as it changes with the seasons.

Every part of the experience at Severina feels thoughtful and rooted in tradition. In a city full of Italian staples, Severina manages to feel both familiar and special — and that’s what makes it worth seeking out again and again.