Umami Keeps It Fresh
- Max McCrory
- Jul 31
- 4 min read
Umami has been open for almost 10 years, and it has not lost an ounce of its cool factor. The restaurant, located in Lawrenceville, is always booked and busy—especially on weekends. Owner and Chef Roger Li also runs Nanban and The Parlor Dim Sum, so you know he can craft an enticing menu. I’ve been there many times over the years, and it never disappoints. The intimate space is bursting with character, with their neon “Meet Me at Umami” sign, red mood lighting, and Japanese lanterns. It’s the ideal neighborhood spot to pop in for a quick, tasty bite and a scrumptious (and strong) cocktail.
Umami’s cocktail menu is stunning. The drinks are meticulously crafted to showcase bold flavors and innovative combinations. Signature drinks like the ”Devil’s Pie” and the ”Bees Knees” highlight Umami’s cocktail prowess. The spring and summer specialty cocktails feature light, refreshing, and fruit-forward profiles. The ”Fizzy Lifting Drink” and ”Tropic Like It’s Hot” will transport you to a sunny paradise. “Not Us with Another Lychee Cocktail” combines the fruity flavors of orange liqueur, acid-adjusted mango, and lychee with smooth vodka and sweet ube. It’s my go-to when I visit Umami.
The menu at Umami is divided into six different sections: zensai (hot and cold apps), robatayaki (grilled meats and veggies), sushi, chirashi and plates, izakaya (small plates), and noodles and plates. I always start with one or two options from the zensai section. My favorites are the warm and comforting miso soup and the rayu cucumbers. The rayu cucumbers are a simple yet unforgettable dish. These crunchy pickles are infused with a hint of chili oil and toasted sesame seeds, delivering a refreshing bite that’s both tangy and subtly spicy. You also can’t go wrong with some classic edamame, although to be honest, I wouldn’t waste too much stomach room on this dish, since Umami’s menu is filled with so many delectable bites.
Umami’s robatayaki section highlights the restaurant’s skill with the Japanese grilling tradition, featuring skewers grilled over binchotan charcoal to infuse smoky, complex aromas into every bite. I haven’t explored this section as much, because I typically indulge mostly in sushi at Umami, but it’s a nice contrast to all the fresh fish. One of my favorites is the wagyu beef skewer. It’s a decadent treat: beautifully marbled and tender. It’s indulgence at its finest. The whole Japanese flying squid is a showstopper and perfect if you’re dining with a larger group. It’s grilled and brushed with a savory eel sauce and a sprinkle of togarashi spice. It’s a dish that’s both visually striking and delicious. I was a bit hesitant to order this the first time I tried it, but its vibrant, smoky flavor profile surprised me. The shishito peppers are a must if you want to take a break from fish and meat. Umami enhances the peppers’ flavor profile with a chili chimichurri that will make your tongue tingle.
The izakaya section is all about convivial dining with friends and rich flavors—some keywords when it comes to describing Umami. The karaage, crispy Japanese fried chicken, is elevated with aonori seaweed, a drizzle of spicy rayu kewpie, and a squeeze of fresh lemon. The skin is perfectly crisp while the meat inside remains juicy and tender. The pork gyoza dumplings are savory perfection. They’re pan-fried until golden brown and presented upside down to show their beautiful crispy edges. The gyoza are some of the best I’ve had in the Pittsburgh area. The takoyaki are unusual to a Western palate, and it usually takes some convincing for my friends to order them. Once they pop the first one in their mouth though, they understand why I love these. These octopus-filled dough balls are topped with silky kewpie mayo, savory tonkatsu sauce, katsuobushi (bonito flakes), and aonori, creating a symphony of textures and flavors.
The star of Umami’s menu is, of course, the sushi. You can’t go wrong with any of the classics, such as the sake (salmon), akami maguro (lean tuna), and hamachi (yellowtail). I recommend venturing into uncharted waters and trying the uni (Hokkaido sea urchin), ikura (salmon roe), or hotate (Hokkaido scallop). You can have them as sashimi, nigiri, or handrolls. I typically order nigiri so I can sample other areas of the menu. I do love getting the akami maguro as a handroll since it comes spicy, which adds another layer of flavor to the fish. All of the fish here is incredibly tender and melts in your mouth. A nigiri that is often overlooked is the tamago, a sweetened egg omelet. It’s the perfect contrasting bite to all the fish.
I fear the noodle section at Umami usually takes a back seat to the rest of the menu for me. The one dish I’ve tried and loved is the yaki udon. It’s truly modern comfort food. Thick, chewy udon noodles are mixed with a myriad of vegetables and drizzled with chili oil for a hit of spice. The gooey onsen egg adds a creaminess to the whole dish. If you’re going to order a noodle dish—this is the one.
Umami’s menu perfectly balances traditional Japanese techniques with contemporary creativity. Every dish showcases a harmony of flavor, texture, and presentation. There’s a reason this restaurant has been able to thrive in Pittsburgh’s restaurant scene for the last 10 years—they know what they’re doing. Whether it’s your first visit or a return trip, this menu promises a memorable and delicious journey into the heart of modern Japanese cuisine.