Lilith Blends Heritages and Bold Flavors

Spaghetti with pork sausage, ramp pesto and an aromatic sofrito

Chefs Dianne DeStefano and Jamilka Borges were well-known in Pittsburgh’s restaurant scene before opening Lilith. Their combined resumés include restaurants such as Bar Marco, Farmer x Baker, Legume Bistro, Lorelei, and Hidden Harbor. The two chefs decided to use their shared kitchen knowledge in 2023 to open Lilith in Shadyside. They wanted to create a restaurant that blended their Puerto Rican and Sicilian roots, and they’ve achieved something delicious with this combination.

The former Café Zhino space is a cozy yet bright space, with dark green walls and ample windows letting sunlight dapple the floors. The distinctly feminine touches, such as the flowy curtains and colorful chairs, add whimsy to the small space. You can tell that DeStefano and Borges have touched every part of this joint venture.

Their kitchen expertise really shines through on their diverse menu. You can really see and taste all of the distinct elements from both chefs’ heritages. The meal starts out with some airy focaccia served with high-quality olive oil and whipped ricotta. I was impressed, because at most restaurants that’s a dish you’d have to pay for.

The appetizer portion of the menu heavily features seafood. We started with the fancy lobster rolls, tuna tartare, and Japanese sweet potato. The fancy lobster rolls were decadent. Large chunks of lobster were mixed with various herbs and an achiote aioli. Achiote is a seed that’s native to the tropical areas of the Americas that has a slightly nutty and earthy flavor. This was very subtle in the lobster rolls. This entire indulgent mixture was nestled in a pan sobao, which is a type of bread made with lard that originates from Puerto Rico. The roll was fluffy and light and perfectly matched the flavor of the lobster salad. This first dish set the bar high for the rest of the evening.

Tuna tartare is a dish I’m always going to order off of any restaurant’s menu. Lilith’s version only reinforced this self-imposed rule. It was bursting with freshness thanks to all of the alliums present in the dish, such as the chive oil, shallot, and scallion, and the addition of lime. The tuna was the perfect luscious texture and contrasted with the crunch of the pan sobao crostini.

Japanese sweet potato is something I’ve never had before, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. The warm flavors of the sweet potato were enhanced by creamy, whipped béarnaise sauce, and then a pop of briny flavor is brought to the dish by the smoked trout roe. This is something I’d definitely order again.

Shrimp ceviche

Next up, my table sampled the shrimp ceviche. Its flavors really got me excited for summer. The coconut, ginger, guanábana (a tropical fruit originating from South America), green curry, lime, and blood orange were bright and gave the dish acidity.

There was a nice variety of delectable mains, such as the beef filet with plantain purée, béarnaise sauce, and asparagus, and the halibut with Caballero beans, tamarind-coconut broth, Thai basil, and bok choy. We opted to order the spaghetti with pork sausage, ramp pesto, and an aromatic sofrito (a base that consists of finely chopped vegetables, herbs, and spices). It was a big contrast from the other dishes we’d had this evening. It was more homey and hearty compared to the light dishes we’d had earlier in the meal. The deep, earthy flavors of all the spaghetti’s elements made themselves known. While this dish differed from the others, it’s clear they have one thing in common: bold flavors. Lilith’s menu does not shy away from using fresh, unique ingredients to create a memorable menu.

Passion fruit smash

While my table opted for a bottle of wine brought from home for our meal, Lilith has a delightful drink menu. Their cocktail menu is really where their beverage team’s creativity is brought to life. A few highlights include: the CocoRita made with Hidden Still tequila, triple sec, lime, and coconut; the Spring Gimlet made with Bluecoat gin, basil, and lime; and the Callin’ All Honey’s made with local Stateside vodka, chamomile, honey, and Sauvignon Blanc. I opted for something fruity to finish out my meal and went with the Passion Fruit Smash made with local favorite Maggie’s Farm rum, ginger, lime, and passionfruit. It was like drinking sunshine in a glass. All of the fruity flavors blended seamlessly with the rum, while the ginger added a hint of spiciness. While they do have actual dessert drinks, like Maggie’s Farm Coffee Liqueur and amaro, I would suggest this cocktail instead.

Frozen chocolate torte

DeStefano is a renowned pastry chef, so I knew the dessert menu would be impressive. I wanted one of everything. Both the passionfruit cheesecake and the spring baked Alaska caught my eye, but I ended up deciding on the frozen chocolate torte. The combination of chocolate and peanut butter is always a winner, and when they’re both whipped into light and airy mousses—then it’s a home run straight into the Allegheny River. This is a must-order, and the best way to end your meal at Lilith.

Both of my experiences at Lilith—one when they first opened in 2023 and my most recent one in late May 2024—show me that they are consistently creating unique dishes that highlight fresh, local products, as well as their familial roots. Many of the dishes at Lilith are new and exciting; they aren’t things you’ll find on almost any other Pittsburgh menu. This is a restaurant that I can see thriving for years to come.