Fish Nor Fowl, which opened in 2018 in the Garfield neighborhood, is part of the Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group empire, along with other spots, such as Meat and Potatoes, täkō, and gi-jin. Fish Nor Fowl serves “good pasta in Pittsburgh” according to their website, as well as other modern takes on Italian dishes.
This wasn’t my first time dining at Fish Nor Fowl; I’d been there several times since its opening and enjoyed each meal more than the last.
Beverages are a must. The restaurant has a well-curated wine and cocktail list with classic options (an espresso martini) and inventive options (a cala rossa with aperitivi, rhubarb, and sparkling rosé). I opted for a glass of prosecco, as I feel it goes well with most Italian dishes, and I also love anything sparkling.
There are so many delicious options on Fish Nor Fowl’s menu that it’s difficult to know where to start. Their menu consists of a variety of options, such as dips, snacks, meats and cheeses, salads, small plates, pastas, large plates, and sides. There are an overwhelming amount of choices to make. I knew I had to start with the buckwheat focaccia because every good meal starts with bread, and the bread at Fish Nor Fowl is some of the best. Along with the bread, we also ordered some dips— the whipped ricotta and the tomato whipped butter. The focaccia has an earthiness to it thanks to the buckwheat and fresh rosemary on top that isn’t typical of other focaccias I’ve tried. This allows it to stand up against the rich and flavorful dips it is served alongside. I love whipped ricotta because of its simplicity. It’s not a difficult dish to make, but every time I have it, it is like a cloud— light and airy. The tomato whipped butter is a luscious, savory dream. The fennel enhances the rich flavors present, while the chili gives it a little zip. I definitely want to switch it up next time I visit and try the charred baba ganoush and Calabrese pesto.
As for snacks, my dining partner and I opted to try the artichokes. The presentation of the dish is stunning with the charred artichokes and fresh fennel standing up in the tahini. I’d never had artichokes with tahini before; they’re typically paired with a creamy, lemony sauce, but I enjoyed the departure from that. Tahini is a Middle-Eastern condiment made from ground sesame, so it’s also creamy with a deep nutty flavor. This worked well with the smoky flavor of the charred artichokes and the light sweetness of the fresh fennel.
Fish Nor Fowl often has rotating specials depending on the season. On the night we dined, there was a special of Italian-imported prosciutto di parma paired with fresh, local cantaloupe. This is a classic pairing, so of course the fatty, salty meat was heavenly with the sweet and succulent cantaloupe. The menu’s typical selection of cured meats, include bresaola, soppressata, salumeria coppa and more. The cheese menu is mixed with a selection of Spanish, Italian, and American cheeses, such as taleggio and a classic chèvre.
We decided to skip the small plates and large plates sections because we wanted room for a hearty pasta. While the bucatini all’amatriciana with guanciale and fusilli with pork sugo and broccoli rabe were enticing, we ended up opting for the mushroom pappardelle. All of the pasta is homemade at Fish Nor Fowl, and you can definitely taste the difference. It’s perfectly al dente, and the pappardelle fell in thick ribbons off of my fork. There was a mix of mushrooms, including porcini and maitake that gave the dish a little flavor variety. The mushrooms paired with an aromatic butter, fresh sage and parmesan created a nourishing, savory dish.
Another night when I have more room, I’d love to try the bone marrow risotto, spiced meatballs, broccoli rabe, rack of lamb or chicken parmesan.
Fish Nor Fowl’s take on modern Italian cuisine is thoughtful and incredibly tasty. Everything from the presentation to the quality of ingredients make it a memorable dinner each time I dine there.
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