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Achieve Glowing Skin All Winter Long

When winter sets in, so does dry and itchy skin. There are certain steps you can take to protect, restore and hydrate winter skin.


Dr. Casey Barry, MD, FAAD, a dermatologist with Pittsburgh Skin | Dermatology & Mohs Surgery
Dr. Casey Barry, MD, FAAD, a dermatologist with Pittsburgh Skin | Dermatology & Mohs Surgery

There are several reasons why the outdoor cold weather and the indoor heat affect our skin. “Cold air holds less moisture than warm air. When outdoor humidity drops, the air pulls water from your skin, leading to increased dryness. Additionally, central heating makes indoor air even drier, which further depletes the skin barrier. Finally, sebum (the natural protective oils of the skin) production decreases in cold weather,” explained Dr. Casey Barry, MD, FAAD, a dermatologist with Pittsburgh Skin | Dermatology & Mohs Surgery based in Cranberry.


Because of this weakened skin barrier, Dr. Barry continued, it is easier for irritants and allergens to penetrate the skin and trigger inflammation.


Certain parts of our bodies are more prone to winter skin irritation, such as the hands, due to constant exposure to cold air as well as frequent handwashing, which strips away moisture. “Additionally, the face, especially around the eyelids, is susceptible given that facial skin is thinner and generally more exposed to wind and temperature changes. Finally, blood flow is more sluggish in the legs, making them susceptible as well,” added Dr. Barry.


In order to keep skin sufficiently hydrated in the winter, there are certain products and ingredients to seek out, and others to avoid. “Occlusive moisturizers, like petrolatum or lanolin, are considered the gold standard for colder weather given their ability to prevent water loss. Additionally, humectants, like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, help by drawing moisture into your skin. Finally, emollients, such as ceramides, help to maintain a strong skin barrier,” said Dr. Barry.


A facial at Body Bar
A facial at Body Bar

Margarite Labanc, director at the Body Bar in McCandless, added, “For winter skin, we would suggest avoiding harsh or alcohol-based cleansers that strip natural oils. You want to stay with a creamy-based cleanser or an oil-based formula. It will cleanse but still protect that skin barrier.”'


Katrina Page, owner of Kiki Beauty Bar
Katrina Page, owner of Kiki Beauty Bar

Because hydration is important in winter, Katrina Page, owner of Kiki Beauty Bar in Ross, advised, “Instead of using gel cleansers that may strip the oils, we want to use gentle, creamy cleansers and add hydrating serums and lipid-rich moisturizers and ensure we are still using SPF every single day. At nighttime, use a gentle cleanser to wash away the day — any free radicals we can come into contact with — and then use heavier creams at nighttime.”


Ingredients that ideally should be avoided in the winter, said Dr. Barry, are those that contain fragrance, especially for those who have dry or eczema-prone skin, as fragrance can accelerate breakdown of skin lipids and water loss.


Labanc said that a daily routine is sufficient, though you should exfoliate less frequently in the winter. “You still want to promote that cell turnover, but you want to limit it to once or twice a week and just use a mild product that contains lactic acid or glycolic acid; in summer, it’s a whole different face,” she said.


There are certainly skin routines that you can do at home, but often people seek out professional procedures at salons, such as facials. “A regular facial will help with deep cleansing, exfoliation and hydration and will target acne, fine lines and dark spots. It will boost circulation and collagen production, all those things that will make skin healthier, smoother and firmer,” said Labanc.


Some salons offer hydrafacials. “That is infusing hydration into the skin. You don’t see results overnight with facials; a hydrafacial tends to give you that glow right away,” Labanc explained.

Katrina Page, owner of Kiki Beauty Bar, performing a facial.
Katrina Page, owner of Kiki Beauty Bar, performing a facial.

Page added that a hydrafacial, one of her favorite types, is completely customizable. And not only do you see instant results, but the effects of this facial will still continue to be apparent for several weeks following, as the antioxidants and peptides kick in; she said it is a great option for winter.


Other procedures at a salon can include microdermabrasion and microchanneling, the latter of which is also called collagen induction therapy.


“Chemical peels are excellent for this time of year as well, as we are less likely to be out in the sun. They are best done in a series, every three to four weeks, and doing so anywhere from three to six times to see dramatic results. It chemically damages the skin to increase cellular turnover, and with that, you will see increased collagen and elastin production. It can reduce fine lines and hyperpigmentation,” said Page.


At both salons, a consultation with a trained aesthetician can help a client determine what products and procedures would be most beneficial for a specific skin type or skin concerns.

Other tips for maintaining the moisture in our skin are to limit the length of hot showers and perhaps take even lukewarm ones.


Labanc suggested applying moisturizer to damp skin, as that will trap the moisture in. “Use a humidifier in the home, stay hydrated, and drink lots of water,” she said. She added that the most underrated skin care product is toner, which should be applied after washing your face, as it closes the pores and conditions the face overall.


Products available for sale at Kiki Beauty Bar.
Products available for sale at Kiki Beauty Bar.

Page agreed that heavy creams are essential in the winter. “We are selling out of triple lipid cream so fast because that is a heavy moisturizer. Even the lip booster is flying off the shelves,” she said.


Everyone agrees that the one skin care routine that should continue all year long, even under the gray, cloudy Pittsburgh skies in winter, is sunscreen. “Up to 80% of UV rays penetrate through clouds all year round,” said Dr. Barry.


Winter skin treatments are helpful for maintaining long-term skin health, not just addressing dryness. While many skin routines can be done at home, a dermatologist can assess a more troublesome skin condition.


The bottom line in the winter is to hydrate thoroughly, lock in moisture and don’t forget the sunscreen.

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