Alta Via, a Fox Chapel staple, recently opened a new spot downtown in October. This is the first time Big Burrito Restaurant Group has opened a restaurant in the heart of downtown. The space, which previously housed Molinaro Ristorante and Bar, is sprawling, yet welcoming. It radiates coziness with banquettes, neutral tones and low, warm lighting. It felt like my own personal dining room.
The new restaurant’s menu mirrors the original location’s menu offerings, so no one will miss out on a favorite dish. Alta Via’s menu is extensive, so it was difficult deciding what to order.
My table started with a selection of antipasti and verdura (vegetables). The tuna tartare is a must-try dish. It was bursting with fresh flavors and was a nice light start to a carb-loaded meal. The burrata and ricotta toast are classic Italian restaurant appetizers, so we had to give them a taste. The burrata had a fairly typical preparation with cherry tomato confit, arugula and grilled focaccia. It’s definitely worth a try if you’re craving something creamy. The ricotta toast was definitely my favorite of the two. The figs on top of the dish added a sweetness, while the pistachios added a delightful crunch to the luxurious whipped ricotta.
We ordered two dishes from the verdura section of the menu: the baby artichokes and the beans and greens. The baby artichokes were incredibly tender and fell apart at the touch of my fork. The lemon aioli added both richness and acidity to this humble vegetable. The beans and greens was by far my favorite dish of the whole evening. The cannellini beans are cooked in a parmesan broth, which adds a nice saltiness. It also kept them as soft as a pillow. While this dish does have some leafy greens in it, as the name suggests, Alta Via put their spin on this dish by adding pesto. This added more depth of flavor with both savory and fresh notes from the pesto. This dish was comforting and ideal for the chilly winter evening. It fit the vibe of the restaurant perfectly.
With over 12 pastas to choose from, it’s difficult to make a decision. Alta Via does offer half portions, so you could definitely try two if you wanted to (and if you didn’t fill up on appetizers like me). I wanted to try the cacio e pepe bucatini, tortelli with ricotta and pine nuts and the fusilli with vodka sauce. I ultimately decided on the mafaldini with mushroom bolognese and ricotta. I’ve had this dish several times since first visiting Alta Via, and it never disappoints. The mushroom bolognese is thick and meaty; you would never know it’s a vegetarian dish. It’s bursting with savory and herbaceous flavors. The mafaldini pasta captures all of the sauce, so you won’t waste a single bite. The ricotta adds a lightness to an otherwise rich dish. This unique pasta dish is a must-try.
If you’re thinking, “how does anyone have room for dessert after all of this food?,” know that I’m right there with you. For the sake of journalistic integrity, it had to be done. While Alta Via has a variety of impressive desserts, including a vanilla crème brûlée and chocolate torta caprese, I opted for the simple cup of gelato. The restaurant makes their own soft-serve gelato, and you can order vanilla, chocolate or twist with a variety of toppings. I opted for a twist with crunchy hazelnuts on top. The contrast of the two textures was heavenly, and this was the most delightful way to end my meal.
Now that Alta Via is more central, I’ll be back to taste more of their menu. I have my eye on a few dishes, including the sea scallops, roasted beets salad, risotto with crispy artichokes and pomegranate seeds and the steak fiorentina. They also recently began serving lunch, and there is a mouthwatering selection of sandwiches that I’d like to try.
Alta Via has perfected the art of combining both classic and inventive takes on homey dishes. It’s the perfect spot to ward off the winter blues.
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